Scott Schuman
Scott Schuman. The Sartorialist MILANO
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Publisher
TASCHEN
ISBN-13
9783754403211
By the twentieth impeccably rumpled Milanese gentleman, backlit and caught mid-stride, a suspicion sets in: you have seen this photograph before. Not this exact man, but this exact picture, the shallow focus dissolving the street behind him, the easy three-quarter turn, the tailoring worn as though slept in on purpose. Scott Schuman has been making it, superbly, for two decades, and repetition has done to the formula what repetition does to any formula.
It helps to remember what the Sartorialist once was. When Schuman started posting in 2005, the notion that an ordinary well-dressed person on a sidewalk deserved the same attention as a runway look was genuinely fresh, and it changed how magazines and brands saw the street. Milano arrives years into that success, when the discovery has settled into a house style, the freshness gone and only the fluency left.
The Milano volume applies that template to one of the most photogenic style cities on earth, which is at once its promise and its ceiling. Milan supplies an endless run of beautiful subjects, so the pictures rarely fail on their own terms. They also rarely surprise. Page after page offers competent, handsome, faintly interchangeable proof that stylish people exist and Schuman can find them.
And yet the eye is real, and it shows most in the people a lesser photographer would stroll past. The older men are the heart of it, some silver-haired Milanese in a cream linen suit who has dressed this way since before the camera existed, entirely unbothered by it. Those frames catch what a runway never will, personal style as accumulated biography, and they are handled with exactly the respect that deserves.
There is a quieter unease here. The Sartorialist eye gravitates, in Milan as everywhere, toward money worn well, and the celebration of taste slides easily into a celebration of the means to afford it. Schuman is too honest a looker to miss this, yet the edit rarely presses on it, preferring the pleasure of the surface to any question about who gets to be this effortless.
The working method is worth stealing even where the output has gone predictable. Available light, a fast lens open wide, a quick rapport that gets a stranger to stand naturally for one honest beat. Schuman's real gift is social, not optical, the knack of making the request feel like a compliment instead of an intrusion.
The result is a handsome object that will not change how anyone photographs and does not appear to want to. It flatters a city, a class of dresser, and a method that proved itself long ago and has coasted pleasantly since; the pleasure is genuine, the ambition is not. Beautiful, and content to be only that.
Critical Reception & Sentiment
"The Sartorialist formula has hardened into something handsome and predictable, and Milan's endless supply of stylish subjects lets it coast. What still earns your attention is Schuman's eye for the older, unbothered dresser and the social ease that makes a stranger trust the lens."